12 Steps Preparing to Install a Wood Burning Stove

The primary heat source in my home has been a wood burning stove for almost 40 years. I have also built two wood burning stoves and installed both of them.

Drawing from experience in installing wood stoves, and from research completed on the subject, I have compiled a list of how to install a wood stove system for home heating. (Hopefully, this will save you time, effort, and money when installing your wood burning system.)

Step 1 – Read NFPA 211

If you plan on installing your own wood burning stove system, step 1 should be to read and follow the NFPA211 standards. This is the standard published by the National Fire Prevention Association on chimneys, fireplaces, vents, and solid fuel burning appliances.

A Standard published by NFPA is just that a standard. A standard is not a law but instead a set of guidelines on fire safety since 1896. That is a long track record.

The standards are generally adopted by other organizations, such as OSHA or state and local governments. These guidelines are to be followed as safety regulations or to receive a permit for building or completion.

The NFPA211 standard uses years of data from past experiences and testing. Following this standard ensures the safe construction and installation of a fireplace or solid fuel device (wood burning stove).

Step 2 – Choosing a Wood Burner

In order to meet the EPA requirements, manufacturers are now required to build wood burning stoves that emit a much lower amount of PM or Particulate Matter than stoves built in the past. These emissions standards are met by building one of two types of stoves.

Standard Wood Stove

Stoves are either catalytic or non-catalytic. Catalytic stoves use a device similar to a vehicle catalytic converter to re-burn the smoke and reduce the emissions from the stove.

Non-catalytic stoves use a baffle before the smoke exits the stove and introduces pre-heated air to re-burn the smoke and lower the PM that exits through the chimney.

The catalytic stove is typically more efficient when new but the catalytic converter will need to be cleaned and will require replacement in 2-5 years depending on the size.

Pellet Burning Stoves

A pellet burning stove burns, pellets! This newest version of pellet burning stoves have several advantages and some disadvantages.

First, they use a much smaller, lower temperature chimney or vent pipe than a traditional wood burning system. They chimney system cost less, it is smaller in diameter, and will generally be easier to install.

Second, pellets are stocked and sold in various stores. This includes the big box home improvement stores, the farm supply stores, and wood stove retailer locations. This makes finding and purchasing your fuel supply convenient and keeps the price consistent.

Pellet stoves have a hopper that is filled with pellets. This hopper typically only needs to be filled one time a day. This is also more convenient than a wood burning stove that requires filling 3-4 times a day.

Lastly, the pellets are cleaner than the wood that is hauled in from the woods. They have no dirt, bugs, or debris that gets hauled into the home living area.

The negative is that it requires electricity to operate. This would not be good in a power outage unless you have a generator to back-up your system. The cost of the pellets is considerably higher than the cost of firewood. This may be offset by the lack of work required (cutting, splitting, and stacking) to build up a yearly firewood supply.

Step 3 – Indoor Stove Placement

Once you have chosen a stove, the placement of the stove is the next decision. A central location is ideal. If your home or building has multiple stories, the lower the location, the better. Heat rises!

A blower on the stove will move the heated air away from the stove, but not down. Hot air only moves up.

In my home, I was able to locate the wood burning stove on a wall adjacent to my propane furnace. This allowed me to connect to my heating duct system in the house to blow warm air from the wood stove through the house.

Another option is to place the wood burner near a cool air return vent. Heat from the stove can be directed into the cool air return duct and distributed throughout the home using existing duct and the furnace fan.

Find a location as near to an entrance as possible. There will be many trips to the outside for wood, the closer to the door the better. Again, at my house, I was able to install a small door in my utility room wall as a pass-through for wood. I have a wood box that sits on the outside of the house on the other side of the door.

Last but most importantly is the location for the chimney. The chimney may go out a side wall and up the outside wall. This will also require multiple 90-degree turns in the chimney pipe.

The straighter the pipe, the better, a chimney that is straight up and out is the ideal situation for a smoke-stack. This allows for the best draw of smoke, the least amount of buildup in the chimney pipe, and the easiest conditions for cleaning.

Step 4 – Floor Covering

The floor under the stove must have a fire/heat resistant surface installed. Brick or a surface that is modular should be used. Many variations are available in different size, shapes, and colors.

Make sure the floor in front of the stove is covered several feet out from the door. Hot coals and shooting sparks will fall out in front of the stove when adding wood and when cleaning.

Step 5 – Protect the Walls Behind

The wall behind a wood burning stove needs to be protected from heat. Brick, stone, or a heat resistant material should be installed behind the stove to protect the walls from excessive radiated temperatures.

The required distance from a wall behind and beside the stove is detailed in NFPA211. The stove manufacturer should also provide guidance in the installation manual.

Step 6 – Installing a Chimney

The chimney is the most important portion of the wood burning system. A properly installed, safe chimney is important because it is where most wood stove fires occur.

Picking the location of the chimney will limit the type of chimney to use. In an existing home, a masonry chimney could generally only be added on an outside wall.

A masonry chimney is made of a flue inner-liner constructed of clay or glazed tile. Then a layer of block surrounds the flue for stability. The exterior is comprised of brick or stone for a finished look and seals the chimney from the elements. Topping off the masonry chimney is a crown that seals the top from the weather.

A wood burner can be connected to an existing masonry chimney if the size of the flue meets the requirements of the stove. A chimney insert may be an option, but in either case, the chimney should be inspected by a chimney professional.

A double-wall or triple-wall chimney system is an option if the chimney will be installed straight up and through the roof. Both systems require a ceiling support box when installing the system through the ceiling. A single wall pipe connects the stove to the ceiling. From the ceiling to the roof requires double or triple wall pipe.

Roof flashing has to be used to shed water of the roof. Then the chimney pipe should extend at least three feet above the peak of the roof. A cap need to be installed on the top to keep birds out of the warm chimney and sparks from leaving the chimney when burning.

There are dozens of accessories for double and triple wall chimneys including T’s, clean-outs, collars, wall straps, and roof supports. Purchase these parts and pieces as required. Just plan ahead and have what is needed when installing.

The route of the chimney should be thoughtfully planned out. The proper clearance to any combustible surfaces should be followed.

Installing an Outdoor Wood Burner

Selecting the location of the outdoor stove is probably the most important piece of a smooth installation. Here are the factors to consider.

Since you will be burning a much larger amount of wood, place the stove near the location of your wood supply. Moving and stacking wood two or three times can be tedious and back-breaking unless it is done with a front loader. You will also be lading the stove 3-4 times a day. Think this one through carefully!

The supply and return water lines will need to be buried. You do not want to cross: septic system pipes, power lines, water supply lines, or drain lines. All these should be avoided if possible or moved if necessary. Call 811 or your local “call before you dig” hotline.

The supply and return lines will generally be connected to a heating exchanger that will be installed in your existing furnace. The furnace will then be used as an air handler. This passes cool air (return) over the heat exchanger providing warm air to be distributed to the home.

Make sure the location of the pathway for the supply and return water pipes has open run to the existing furnace.

Some homes have existing hot water heat that the system can be connected to. This would be a more efficient system but would also require significant planning in the run of piping from the stove to the existing water pipe system.

Additional Considerations:

Before you install a wood burning stove, there are many things to consider. Some of these items were touched on in the article but really need a separate line to make sure you have spent some time thinking about. These are items I have learned over time from practical experience and mistakes I have made. This is so you don’t make the same.

Step 7 – Wood Supply

What is your wood supply? Do you have a long term supply of wood such as your own woods or family with a woods. The drawback (and this has happened to me) is it may not last forever. That woods could be sold or turned into farmland. Make sure you have options. Even a source from a tree trimmer for a short term fix if your supply dries up.

Step 8 – Wood Storage

Where do you plan on storing the wood? Some communities do not allow the large trucks to deliver or large piles of wood (they do draw varmints). Make sure you have access to and permission for wood storage.

Step 9 – Transportation

If you plan on supplying your own wood, do you have a vehicle or trailer that is capable of hauling the heavy loads? T truck will get banged up in the woods. Dents in the bed and scratches in the side panels. It is not pretty. Be prepared. If you are using a trailer, it needs to be rated to haul the wood you intend to carry. It’s not fun changing a tire on a fully loaded trailer. Experience!

Step 10 – Pellet Hauling

The same thing goes for hauling pellets without the mess and banged up truck. A pallet of pellets weighs one ton. A half-ton pickup truck will handle the load, but you have to be able and willing to unload a ton of pellets. Also, have a dry location to store them.

Step 11 – Cleaning the Chimney

A plan to clean the chimney is a must. Getting to the peak of a 12 x 12 pitch roof i not fun or safe if you don’t have the proper safety gear. Contact a chimney cleaning service and get their rates if you are not comfortable with this task. Keeping the chimney clean is the most important task of any on this list. A clean chimney makes for a safe wood burning system.

Step 12 – Cleaning out the Ashes

What do you plan on doing with the leftover ashes? If you have a garden, that is the best place to dispose of burnt ashes in the winter. They will disperse into the soil nicely in the spring and help correct the PH balance of the soil. If you don’t have a garden, then another disposal must be considered. Remember, ashes can still be hot 36 to 48 hours after removing them from the stove. Let them cool first.

Conclusion

Whether you are installing an indoor wood burning stove, a pellet burner, or an outdoor boiler stove, planning is extremely important for a successfully completed project. From choosing the correct type of stove for your home to lighting the first fire of the season, many decisions must be thought out and made.

A reputable local stove retailer with positive reviews can help guide you through this process. Most will be able to complete the installation for you if the process seems too overwhelming.

If you are going to complete the installation yourself, plan the install from start to finish and be prepared to adjust when an obstacle shows up. Something will and you can deal with it; after all, you are an “adaptable do-it-yourselfer.”